Tag: St Cuthbert

How to take a walk in the footsteps of the Northern Saints

* This post was written pre lockdown * 

One name keeps coming up in County Durham: Cuthbert.

“St Cuthbert is woven into the landscape of the Northeast. There were times when the pilgrims couldn’t get to his shrine as it was so crowded.”

Charlie Allen, Canon Chancellor of Durham Cathedral, is expainling Cuddy’s perennial appeal as we meet in the Cathedral cloisters, the sound of the choir practicing for evensong beyond the ancient walls.

“Today, pilgrims come for different reasons but the idea of making a pilgrimage remains a transition point in life. It’s a time to reassess.”

Durham is the visitor hub for six new, long-distance walking trails, collectively the Northern Saints project, which maps the spiritual heritage of Northeast England as the Christian crossroads of the British Isles.

The trails, following ancient pilgrimage routes, were first waymarked to coincide with the Association of English Cathedrals naming 2020 as the Year of Pilgrimage.

I’m walking The Way of Life, following in the footsteps of St Cuthbert north towards Durham via Bishop Auckland.

His body was carried by his devoted followers [pictured above as a statue in Durham] to a place of refuge following Viking raids on Northumberland in the 9th century.

One of the shorter of the six trails, the 29-mile hike divides conveniently into two or three sections for a weekend of autumnal walking and local history.

There are places to stay and eat along the route with more infrastructure to be added.

The route is well waymarked with circular symbols of a purple Celtic cross, although it’s worth downloading a route plan from the website for some sections.

Further waymarking is due to be completed by Easter 2021.

My features from The Way of Life will now be published in the spring. Check back for details.

Story of the day: Seeing the light in Durham

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Keeping a wintery theme, this story from the Daily Express is all about light.

Winter light, to be specific. The kind of soft, northeastern tones that have inspired artists and polymaths.

This story took me to Durham for the first time on assignment and I’m hoping to go back later this year in search of St Cuthbert – ‘Cuddy’ as the local call him.

But more of that later.

For now, here’s an extract with an, ahem, light-motif.

It was a view that inspired JMW Turner and Sir Walter Scott.

The sweeping panorama, looking across from Millhouse weir towards Durham Cathedral, galvanised the former to capture the light in watercolour and the latter to pen the lines:

“Grey towers of Durham. Yet well I love thy mixed and massive piles.”

“There is a unique clarity to the light in north-eastern Britain,” says Blue Badge guide Jan Williams, “even the monks knew to install their desks in north-facing cloisters to have the best of it.”

Read the full story, Durham Dazzles.

Have other places around the North inspired great works of art, or great works of literature?

Post your comments below.