Tag: France

Story of the week: Eating out in Corsica with man’s best friend

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* Image from asterixofficiel.tumblr.com

There’s only thing I hate more than dogs: the arrogance of dog owners.

Personally I find no delight in close proximity to their rancid, flea-bitten pooches, let alone do I feel compelled to run my hands over the moth-eaten fur.

Yet dog lovers persist in not only believing the universe revolves around their pets, but also that we all want to share in their puppy love.

Dogs are, of course, smart to my antipathy towards our four-legged friends.

Indeed, just walking down the street sometimes means running the gauntlet of the local community. Faithful family pets happily trot over to pant a cheery greeting to most people passing by.

When I, however, saunter past, the little chap inevitably hurls himself at the picket fence in a fit of spittled rage normally reserved for their favourite postman.

That’s the doggy six sense for you. With me it’s personal.

Dog lovers

In Britain we have a reputation for being supremely soppy about our dogs. Compared to our doggy-doting Euro cousins, however, I think we are positively rational.

The Germans, for example, will breeze past a cute baby in a pram without comment but, walk down the street with a mutt on a string, and they’ll be falling over themselves to complement the owner.

There are a reported 55m pet dogs in the United States and, according to a study conducted by the American Animal Association, 53 per cent of pet owners now take their vacation with their animals. This trend has spawned a slew of doggy travel sites.

But having spent time on the Mediterranean island of Corsica, I’ve now come to conclusion that it is the French who take their canine devotion to most irrational extremes.

Now don’t get me wrong. I find much to admire in French culture from the restaurants of Lyon to the beaches of Provence. Indeed I’m a French-speaking regular visitor to the land of appellation controlée wines and superlative patisserie.

But I have a problem bigger than President Chirac’s grocery bill with a nation that takes its dogs everywhere with them.

What I found most intolerable about this particular trip was the way that Corsicans insist on taking their dogs into restaurants, often even requiring the waiter to supply a dog bowl so owner and mutt can simultaneously share in the gastronomic experience.

Personally there’s nothing more likely to put me off my steak au poivre than a dog fiend insisting on bringing their mangy mutt into a restaurant where I’m enjoying a long holiday lunch.

After several weeks of canine confrontations, I could feel a spat coming on that would make the Bush-Chirac face-off over Iraq look like a petty quarrel at the local kindergarten.

I knew how the scenario would develop only all too well. Just as I would be enjoying a particularly succulent mouthful, the horrid hound will come padding over, trying to sniff its way into my affections.

“Look,” says the dog owner, beaming as it starts humping my shin like a jackhammer, “I think he likes you.”

“It’s Okay,” they’ll add as, rebuffed the hound starts growling menacingly, “he only wants to play. Don’t you Simba?”

Well, unless he wants to play at getting a hefty size nine somewhere even James Herriot wouldn’t put his forearm, then I suggest, Monsieur, you control your filthy mutt forthwith.

This is, inevitably, where it all turns nasty. Compelled to defend the dog’s honour as if I’d just likened his mother to the kind of woman who busies herself with pox-ridden sailors down the docks at Marseilles, they leap into action – both man and mongrel showing their teeth and flaring their nostrils.

“Come here, Simba,” he says, casting an eye around for support from fellow pooch lovers. “Clearly,” he spits with a garlic-tinged, Gallic sneer, “Zis Monsieur does not like ze dogs.”

Vive le chien

But why are the Corsicans so devoted to their dogs?

Other nations strike me as far more considerate – from the Californians who keep poochy pamper parlours in business to the Brits who leave Fido with their equally doggy friends.

But, even at the height of the packed tourist season, Corsicans leave their mutts unmuzzled to worry small children and unchecked to serve up steaming little pavement calling cards by way of a defiant final flourish.

“Personally I blame the falling birth rate,” says Sharon McManus, an ex-pat American who lectures Corsican students in tourism studies.

“So long as the Corsican male’s sperm count continues to fall short of his macho posturing, I expect people will continue to turn to dogs for more meaningful companionship.”

“This is the land of the vendetta, after all, and a slur on the dog is a slur on the family.”

European union

After this recent trip, I’d finally had enough.

From now on I’d like to see dogs banned from all our restaurants and hotels. Furthermore, the time has come to send in crack squads of pooch poachers to storm eateries the length and breadth of the country, impounding stray mutts and fining defiant owners.

Indeed, I was so incensed, that upon my return to London I attempted to kick-start my crusade by writing to my local MEP.

But, according to the response from Baroness Sarah Ludford, a Liberal Democrat MEP from London’s Islington, it may yet be some time before the dog has had his day.

“I would love a law to keep dogs out of restaurants as I am a cat person myself. But, strangely enough, I do not see any great demand for Brussels to meddle in this matter,” she advises.

“Besides,” she adds, offering me little comfort for the next onslaught of the dog squad, “it might be something of a dogs’ breakfast if they did.”

What did you think of this story? Post your comments below.

This article was first published in the Weekend FT in September 2003.

Liked this? Try also Making yourself at home in Corisca.

Story of the week: Making yourself at home in Corsica

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* There are not many places I would refuse a return visit to – but Corsica is one. Here’s one story about a happier moment in a trip from hell. 

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Mrs. V and I had quite a thing going.

She welcomed me into her home, accompanied me on moonlit strolls around the citadel and, in the morning, brought me fresh coffee and oven-hot croissants.

But there was, you understand, no monkey business. You see Mrs. V – or Madame Vignon as she is known to her Corsican neighbours – is a sprightly, octogenarian grandmother, who just happens to run the best little chambre d’hote in Bastia.

Home stays 

Over the years, Corsica has acquired something of a reputation for poor value and lacking in tourist infrastructure. Worse still, in high season, the beaches are rammed, prices hiked and service in restaurants can be somewhere between surly and downright rude.

But, thanks to a new scheduled service operating from May to late October, the island of Napoleon’s birth is now opening up to a new generation of more independent travellers, those more likely to hop over to Toulouse on easyJet or Montpellier with Ryanair than book an all-inclusive package with accompanying charter connections.

It is Bastia, transport hub of Corsica’s north, that has been the main beneficiary of this new trend and is now blossoming as a destination in its own right.

The capital of Haute Corse has always been the economic powerhouse of Corsica’s stop-start economy and today it retains a workaday feel: lively, businesslike and, maybe, a little rough around the edges. But give it a chance. Get to know Bastia and you will start to understand Corsica.

The hub of the action is the 19th-century Place St-Nicolas. Start by picking a spot along its western flank and spend an hour or two soaking up the café culture in the shadow of the imposing statue of Napoleon. The pint-sized emperor appears frozen in time from his plinth vantage point, gazing out to the island of his exile, Elba.

From here it’s a short saunter via the Vieux Port, one of the city’s prime drags for al fresco eating overlooking the harbour, to the citadel district.

Built by Corsica’s Genoese governors in 1452, the complex of tiny alleyways and fortified ramparts was formerly the seat of Corsica’s political powerbase, based around the Governors’ Palace, and a symbol of Bastia’s legislative role – until, that is, the city lost its capital city status to southern upstart Ajaccio in 1811.

Family life

Traditionally, holidaymakers arriving off the ferries from Nice and Marseilles have opted to push on by car rather than run the gauntlet of the city’s hit-and-miss accommodation options.

Thankfully, however, Bastia’s local tourist office is also one of the most forward thinking on the island and, that too, is changing.

Over the last few seasons, local tourism authorities have introduced an initiative to not only promote the city’s historical legacy with a series of worthwhile waking tours, but also recruit a number of venerable madames d’un certain age to open their family homes on a B&B basis.

Step forward my new best friend, Mrs. V. Corsican chambre d’hotes are little treasures, offering a unique way to get to know local people, sample some traditional Corsican hospitality and gain a fresh perspective on the Corsican world view.

Chez Madame Vignon is typical of the experience. The accommodation is fairly simple, with two homely bedrooms and a shared bathroom, but the house is located close to the city centre, and the easy-going, family atmosphere make it feel like a true home from home.

As we sat on her terrace, a spectacular view across the bay before us, Mrs. V and I got to know each other better, discussing everything from her grand-daughter’s exam results to Corsica’s long-running struggle for independence.

In fact, we got on so well, we ended up going for a stroll around the citadel, stopping for a cheeky glass of rosé at a nearby café.

The Corsican diet differentiates itself from French brasserie fare with its reliance on ingredients as chestnuts, brocciu (fresh sheep or goat cheese) and regional charcuterie, such as figatellu, a thin liver sausage. Bastia is a great place to acquire a taste for such Corsican village specialities, with many of the restaurants around town offering a good-value set menu Corse.

The pick of the bunch for your first, proper Corsican supper is Osteria U Tianu, a family-run spot, nestled amongst the backstreets of the Vieux Port.

With a simple but tasty five-course set menu, you’ll find it a challenge to eat better anywhere else on the island. And, afterwards, it’s just a short saunter over to rue Fontaine Nueve, where the pavement café-bars attract a mix of locals and students until 2am.

Mooching around the compact centre the next day, I also found that Basita is a good place to stock up some of the island’s traditional produce.

Cap Corse Mattei, a shop unchanged in over 100 years of commerce, is a local institution and home to the ubiquitous local aperitif, Cap Corse. It also does a fine line in honeys, liquors and chestnut-flavoured beers, as does U Muntagnolu, a charcuterie specialist across town.

Country lanes

For many visitors to Corsica, however, a trip to the island is about getting out into the countryside, dipping into traditional Corsican village life and filling your nostrils with the scent of the maquis, the scrubland vegetation that Napoleon, while exiled on Elba, famously said reminded him of his childhood home.

Bastia provides an ideal base for touring with several options for easy one to three-day excursions by hire car into the surrounding region.

These include wine-tasting your way through the 30-odd vineyards of Patrimonio, followed by a stint on the beach at St-Florent; or following the Balagne villages craft trail from Ile Rousse to the upscale resort town of Calvi, via the idyllic village of Algajola.

The gloriously rugged coastline of Cap Corse was, for me, however, the obvious choice.

The D80 road out of Bastia hugs the eastern coastal roads of le Cap, protruding 40km into the Ligurian Sea as if extending a giant, Gallic finger towards mainland France.

The scenery is spectacular and the roads, at times, utterly terrifying, with narrow coastal roads and dramatic crashing waves beckoning from below white-knuckle sheer drops.

The owners of Le Relais du Cap, another family-run chambre d’hote located just south of Nonza at Olmeta du Cap, fell for the rugged charm of the western cape, gave up a business in France and relocated to Corsica to open a guesthouse, which today hugs a gloriously isolated headland in a rustic hideaway.

That night I joined them and a handful of other guests – two strapping Danish hikers and a leather-clad motorbiking couple from Italy – to drink wine, swap tales from the road and watch the sunset from the terrace overhanging the ocean.

I could have stayed a week but Mrs. V. was waiting and I’m not the kind of boy to going breaking my promises to diminutive grandmothers with a rakish glint in their eyes.

Fond farewell

Back in Bastia, Mrs. V greeted me with cold lemonade and tales of the tortoises making escape bids from her garden. That night we took one last moonlit constitutional around the citadel and, the next morning, there was an extra warm croissant tellingly left on my breakfast tray.

As I made to say my goodbyes, Mrs V. gave me a big, wet, grandma kiss on the cheek and announced with a wink that another young man was due to arrive that night.

Maybe she had just been just toying with me all along.

This story was first published in A Place in the Sun magazine in 2004. Liked this? Try also Talking contemporary art in Burgundy. 

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Talking contemporary art in Burgundy

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* Sometimes commissions go wrong. This was one. I was commissioned to write this piece during summer 2012 with a view to running it in the October issue of Metropolitan, the magazine for Eurostar. The the editor left, the piece got spiked and I didn’t get paid – that’s freelancing for you. But I did write it and, at least, I can run the copy here for those who helped with the trip and on-the-ground research.

The location, an unassuming house on Dijon’s Avenue Eiffel opposite a Casino supermarket, looks nondescript.

But beyond the green-iron gates is this month’s hottest art opening in France: the new studio of the Chinese-born, Dijon-adopted painter, Yan Pei-Ming.

The low-key opening by one of the most lauded contemporary artists is typical of Burgundy.

While Paris has well-established galleries for contemporary art clustered around Odeon and Bastille, Burgundy’s at scene remains relatively unknown, a discrete but revolutionary find in a region traditionally associated with the classical art of the 14th century Dukes of Burgundy.

But it’s contemporary work that is now sweeping Burgundy — from ephemeral installations in rural villages to bold-statement openings like L’ Usine, Dijon’s new contemporary art space unveiled quietly last summer.

Sherry Thevenot, who leads art-themed tours around the region with Burgogne Authentique, says:

“These artistic statements are a pleasurable surprise for visitors, a new canvas for artists and a boost to rural villages in Burgundy,”

We meet some of the faces behind the burgeoning Burgundian art scene.

L’ENFANT TERRIBLE

“I’m still an anarchist,” says Xavier Douroux, the founding father of the Burgundy art scene, swivelling playfully on his office chair on the top floor of L’Usine. “I like to make conflict if that conflict changes something for the better.”

Douroux was one of the founders of the groundbreaking Dijon art space, Le Coin du Miroir, in 1977. An art student with classical training but an anti-bourgeois streak, one of his first projects was to turn his student apartment into a gallery – and early take on the Consortium – and invite internationally known artists to show their work.

“Dijon is different to places like Lyon, Nantes or Lille as a reference point for contemporary art. That’s why we started here and we stayed here,” he says, a mass of grey curls piled higher on his head than the art books accumulating on his desk. He adds:

“The artists have created their own energy here. It hasn’t been programmed, it happened organically.”

Since those early punk-rock days, Douroux has become a focal point for the artistic community, currently juggling 15 new art projects around Burgundy alone with a further ten outside the region. He has been particularly active in taking art into dying rural communities, including creating a trail of installations around old lavoir, communal village washhouses.

Some of these isolated farming communities took some convincing that an art installation would enrich their environment. “Of course it takes time. You have to meet with the farmers, drink with them, and go fishing with them.

He smiles. “I’m not trying to convince people that contemporary art is the best thing in the world. I’m just happy we had an experience together.”

One of the latest initiatives is to open a private art space in the village of Vosne-Romanée, home to the world-renowned winemaker Aubert de Villaine of the Domaine de la Romanee-Conti. The space opens this October with work by the local artist Bertrand Lavier.

Also in October, L’Usine will host a new exhibition of works from the Consortium collection, including pieces by Francois Morellet amongst others.

Despite being increasingly as part of the art established with the ear of ministers and artists, Douroux is still proud of his anarchist streak. “Art is something free but it has energy,” he says.

“When we create art, it gives us energy to build new something new.”

THE CURATORS

Paris-based art school inspector Alain Gislot and art teacher Edith Bricogne found a ruined 17th-century chateau while holidaying in rural Burgundy in 1986. They decided to restore it and, by 2002, had turned the sprawling mansion into Arcade, a cutting-edge atelier for design.

The Chateau de Sainte Colombe en Auxois now hosts three major exhibitions each year, all based around a central theme, and attracts some 3,000 visitors annually to a formerly lost-in-time village some 60km northwest of Dijon.

“Of course it was pure folly,” laughs Alain, basking in autumn sunshine by a wicker seat with a tree growing through it, a living-chair installation by the artist Pascal Stemmelin. “We did it because we are passionate about design.”

“People are afraid of the word design,” he adds, “but we bring students from the major art schools here to guide visitors through the exhibitions and explain the ideas behind the pieces to make it more accessible.”

“I hope,” he adds, “we change perspectives.”

The current exhibition, Entrelacer: Des Lignes au Volume, based around the idea of interconnections, runs until October 14. It includes furniture, lighting and, notably, new work by the Paris-based textile designer Helene Pillet-Will. “I like the experimentation with new materials in these works,” says Edith. “They have soul.”

The new season starts in April 2013 with the exhibition Textiles du Monde, based around the concept of less is more. Le Jardin de Camille, a new permanent outdoor piece by the Burgundy artist Bernard Lavier was installed spring 2012 to recreate St Mark’s Square, the famous meeting point in Venice, next to the village’s Romanesque church.

Yet, despite support from the Burgundy art community, funding remains a major concern and the curators are now looking for a full-time director. Alan laughs.

“We have never taken a salary for our work. It’s crazy. We do it for the passion.”

THE COLLECTOR

Francois Barnoud runs his engineering business from an industrial estate on the eastern fringes of Dijon. But he’s also recently opened a new wing to his office block next door — and it’s no storeroom.

Entrepot Neuf is one of the most radical new spaces for art in Burgundy, a minimalist rectangular gallery dedicated to new and experimental artists.

A recent exhibition featured digital-media work by the Mexican artist Miguel Chevalier. This October, the gallery showcases collected works from Barnoud’s own private collection.

“My first passion was jazz but, when I went to the first international art fair in Paris in 1986, it struck me that, like there is genius in jazz, there must be genius in contemporary art,” says the softly-spoken President of Geotec, sitting behind a desk piled high with papers, proposals and the proofs of his first book.

“I simply started collecting what I liked. And I liked the fact that, by bringing provocative contemporary art to Dijon, it would shake up the city’s bourgeois mentality.”

Over the years, and after several previous forays into running art spaces in the city, including giving over his own home over to art in the Nineties, Barnoud has given early exposure to young artists who have gone onto to earn international plaudits.

The Cameroon-born artist Barthélémy Toguo was first shown by Barnoud, while the French artists Georges Rousse and Philippe Gronon both had early shows in his spaces.

But, while art is still — for now — generously support by the French Ministry of Culture, Barnoud has always rejected government grants in favour of private enterprise.

“A French company can use five per cent of its business turnover to buy the work of a living artist. If you show that work to the public, then you can assign the cost to your company accounts,” explains Barnoud.

He hopes Entrepot Neuf will convince fellow business leaders to join him in collecting and showing art.

“It’s always been an uphill battle convincing people to invest,” he laughs, “but I always rather enjoyed the fight.”

* Liked this? Try also Father’s Day in Burgundy.

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Story of the week: Truffle hunting in the Lot Valley

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* This is the first post in a new weekly series, highlighting stories from the archive for which the is no active link. I’m running them here in full. Subscribe to this blog for more.

The Egyptians coated them in goose fat and cooked them en papillote. The Romans thought they had mysterious aphrodisiac powers and, in the 19th century, the French novelist, Alexandre Dumas, of The Three Musketeers fame, wrote, “They can, on certain occasions, make women more tender and men more lovable.”

The food in question? Black truffles, otherwise known to fungi fiends as black diamonds.

The Larousse Gastronomique, the chef’s Bible, defines the truffle thus:

‘A subterranean fungus which lives in symbiosis with certain trees, mainly the oak; it is found in chalky soil or clay, quite near the surface, less than 30cm deep.’

There are 70 varieties of truffles grown globally from California to Australia and 30-odd varieties flourishing in Europe alone. But the king of truffles, and the only variety any serious truffler will get out of bed for, is the Tuber Melanosporum, better known as the truffe noir d’hiver. With its trademark black flesh, striped with thin, white veins, and an aroma somewhere between that of petrol fumes and Gorgonzola cheese, this is the true black diamond.

Truffles tend to be eaten with foie gras, used in recipes with game and meat, or in various sauces and garnishes. The flesh is cut into thin slices, or diced and sprinkled liberally over a dish. The flavour is hard to define, subtle yet unusual, while the true truffle cognoscenti profess to enjoy them best when cooked with some butter and served like a canapé, or braised with some white wine in a pastry parcel.

The best place to go in search of the black diamond is the Lot region of southwest France, a gloriously scenic backwater with easy access from the flight hub of Toulouse.

And that’s exactly why, on a nippy afternoon in early January, the height of the truffle-hunting season, I find myself in a wood in rural France with Marthe Delon, a local farmer, a group of Japanese truffle traders and Kiki, one of the last working truffle pigs in the Lot.

A pig in muck

Four-month-old Kiki is clearly relishing the spotlight and puts on a fine show of sniffing out potential truffles then digging up the earth with his snout. Discipline is essential for a well-trained truffling pig, however, and Marthe is a strict taskmaster, policing her porcine helper with a stiff wooden cane and a stout rope lead.

A stocky women in a floppy Credit Agricole hat and a smile that attests to a lifetime of poor dental hygiene, the Japanese traders clearly love the theatre of the hunt as Marthe, the digger in truffle parlance, pursues Kiki through the woods behind her farm like a peasant farmer dominatrix in a grubby apron.

“Non,” she exclaims, administering a hefty thwack to Kiki’s hind legs. “Allez, cherche,” she demands, forcing Kiki to let out a disgruntled shriek and reluctantly relinquish a tasty morsel of shrub.

The Japanese, meanwhile, snap photos and applaud enthusiastically. Only when Kiki stops truffling to urinate voluminously close to a Tokyo-purchased brogue do the smiles give way to a moment of awkward silence.

Truffles form from spores during June and develop during the summer months, reaching maturity just after Christmas due to the favourable combination of local soils and climate. From January to March, the main truffle season, Marthe and Kiki are out truffling most weekends and on Mondays, taking advantage of the afternoon sun and softer earth to hunt truffles for the Tuesday market at the nearby village of Lalbenque.

Dogs are increasingly used these days to sniff out the powerful aroma of the buried truffles but Marthe insists that a well-trained pig is far superior. Dogs, she explains, tend to mistakenly dig up truffles that are not yet mature and, once they come into contact with the oxygen in the air, the truffle is ruined, rendered worthless. Bought for €100 from the market, however, Kiki has developed a nose finer than that of a Bordeaux wine merchant and, in a two-hour afternoon truffling session, can unearth up to 850g of top-quality truffles.

If he slacks off, Marthe simply helps to focus his mind by administering a hearty thwack of the cane to his perky pink posterior.

Foodie festival

The next day we head to the tiny village of Lalbenque, the truffle capital of France, located 17km southeast of Cahors. It’s two in the afternoon and the tiny main street is a sea of berets and cheroots. French farmer peasant chic is definitely le look du jour.

Lalbenque plays host to the world’s largest truffle festival at the end of January each year and, each Tuesday during the truffle season, is the location of a boisterous truffle market. In the immediate run-up to the opening bell, there’s a tangible frisson of truffle-induced tension in the air. When the chimes ring out and the red standard is raised to let trading begin, a frenzy of activity follows with deal struck, scales loaded and old scores re-opened.

It’s been that way for over 80 years and the truffle purists wouldn’t have it any other way.

The latest challenge to the status quo, however, comes from an altogether unlikely source: the world’s fastest-growing economy. About ten years ago, farmers in the north of Yunan and south of Sichuan provinces in China discovered that foreign clients would pay big bucks for locally grown truffles.

These Chinese truffles, the Tuber Indicum, are of inferior quality with less aroma and taste than the truffles of the Lot, but cheap imports soon started flooding the market with unscrupulous dealers passing them off as bone-fide black diamonds.

Today over 10 tons of Chinese truffles enter the European market each year, although local truffle syndicates controlling the quality ensure that few end up for sale at Lalbenque’s market, the majority sold direct to hotel kitchens. The National Institute of Agricultural Research (INRA) now carries out random DNA testing to flush out bogus dealers with anyone caught deceiving the consumer heavily fined.

The prices at the Lalbenque market do, however, fluctuate from 700 euros per kg for a sale to a small trader to 400 euros per kg for leftover truffles to use in sauces and preserves. For the insider knowledge on insider dealing, therefore, we pay a visit to the Cahors-based office of Pebeyre Truffles, a family business that has traded high-quality truffles for four generations.

There, hunched over a tray of truffles in a blue overall, we find Pierre-Jean Pebeyre, the head of the business and a man whose client list is more closely guarded than Elton John’s wedding invitation list. Japan, Hong Kong and Australia are his major markets, London’s Ritz Hotel a regular customer and what he calls “individuals of private means” often call his mobile phone, talking prices in hushed, conspirational tones.

Even today Pierre-Jean and his father personally inspect every truffle leaving the warehouse after cleaning and sorting.

“What I look for in a good truffle is the combination of firmness and subtlety,” he says, sifting through a tray of freshly washed truffles with the keen eye of a diamond trader.

“The clue to the quality comes when I cut a piece of skin to see the contrast between the black flesh and the white veins. Top quality truffles fetch around 600 euros per kg at current market rates.”

For the Pebeyres, however, the future looks uncertain. When the business started in 1897 there were 800 tons of truffles produced in France with 25 tons in the Lot. Today there are less than 20 tones in all of France. “I think in ten years my métier will be dead,” he predicts gloomily. “The ecology of rural communities has changed, leaving trufflers marginalised. The only way for this business to survive is to diversify into other high-quality products, such as foie gras while maintaining a small truffle tradition.”

Yet while the volume of truffles may be declining, interest in the folklore surrounding them is not. Science remains unable to cultivate truffles under laboratory conditions while even truffle purists can’t find the words to describe the idiosyncratic flavour.

“For me, it’s a very strong, powerful flavour, but also very fragile – if you cook it too long, it is destroyed,” says Gilles Marre, head chef at Cahors-based restaurant Le Balandre and a member of the Bonnes Tables du Lot, an association of local chefs. “Maybe that’s the key to its enduring mystery,” he adds, “It’s a balancing act.”

The ultimate quest

Back in the woods, Kiki is busy truffling away, blissfully unaware of the socio-economic effects of rural migration that plague the contemporary truffle terroir. He sniffs the ground, locates his target and starts burrowing frenziedly with his snout. When he unearths a plump, earth-covered truffle, Marthe proffers a handful of dog biscuits, the Pavlovian reward that ensures Kiki doesn’t scoff the merchandise.

Our quest for the black diamond is complete.

After the Japanese visitors disperse and Kiki is returned to his enclosure, he looks as happy as a pig in the proverbial. But life is cruel for trufflers: despite his sterling efforts today, this little piggy’s days are numbered. “The life of a truffling pig is happy but short,” Marthe grins a wide, toothless grin.

“Come November we’ll be training up a new pig for next season,” she adds.

“And Kiki will be keeping us in pate and sausages throughout the winter.”

* This story won the French Travel Article of the Year, awarded by the Association of British Travel Organisers to France (ABTOF), in 2006.

It was originally published in bmi Voyager magazine.