Month: January 2014

Story of the week: Reviving a dying village in the Algarve

 

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* A bit of winter sunshine this week with a story from Portugal with a business/ecotourism angle. 

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It’s the ultimate escape to the country.

A high-powered advertising executive goes on holiday, falls in love with a rural backwater and quits his job, swopping an expense account and 15-hour working days for a tumbledown village and a back-to-nature lifestyle.

It sounds like a flight of fantasy, but Antonio Ferreira made it a living, breathing reality.

The Lisbon-born high flyer, who handled communication strategy for advertising agencies Young & Rubicam and J Walter Thompson, relocated his whole family to the western Algarve and went about bringing Aldeia da Pedralva, a 200-year-old village near Vila do Bispo, back to life.

He has never looked back.

“I felt like I was living in a washing machine in the city. I didn’t have control over my life,” says Antonio, his olive skin glowing from a heady cocktail of sunshine and fresh air.

“I found it’s fine to have a big car and eat in nice restaurants in Lisbon, but it’s just not real.”

Secluded spot 

The Ferreira family stumbled upon the former farming village, complete with ten houses and a handful of ageing locals, while holidaying around the Algarve’s lesser-visited west coast in 2006.

Another 40 properties lay in ruins nearby, overgrown and unloved. The once proud, 100-plus agricultural community had dwindled to just nine residents, the majority having left in search of work in Lisbon or Faro in the Seventies.

Drawing on his business acumen, and reflecting on childhood holiday with his grandparents in a central Portuguese village, Antonio recognised it as the project he had been searching for. Bringing the dead village back to life would be his escape the rat race.

“Life is different here,” says Antonio. “You buy your dinner from the fishermen, your vegetables from the village shop. I saw people in the city who felt like me and I decided to build a place where we can all feel at home.”

Antonio bought three houses initially and subsequently spent the next few years buying and rebuilding another 20, restoring the traditional properties, tinged with touches of Arabic architecture, to their erstwhile rustic glory.

But more than just rebuilding the village, he wanted to breath life back life to Pedralva, learning to present the values and traditions of forgotten village life in a new, contemporary way.

As such, he deliberately recycled many of the old materials, using the old roof tiles, wooden doors and broken-down furniture for the new houses.

A group of his advertising colleagues invested €4m/ £3,383,337 in the properties, while the local council ploughed €1m/ £845,880 into building new roads and street lighting. The village shop stocked its shelves for the first time in 25 years and the community oven was coaxed out of retirement to bake fresh bread.

A dedicated reception and restaurant, plus a small outlet store, have since opened their doors.

Today, the village, a 120km (90 minute)-drive down the A22 highway from air hub Faro, is buzzing with vital signs.

Wafts of eucalyptus perfume the air, international visitors rub shoulders with elderly villagers tending the communal vegetable patch and people load up their cars for day trips in the Costa Vicentina Natural Park.

There are now 24, whitewashed stone houses, with 40 rooms between them, available to rent with lots of mod cons, including Nespresso coffee machines, behind each of the pastel-hued front doors.

But how does Padralva’s Strategy Director square his vision for a community-tourism eco-village with the cold, hard reality of running a business?

“It is a business, of course. We have to pay the employees and keep on good terms with the bank. But it’s more than just a simple tourist project, “ he explains.

“By staying in Pedralva, we can understand the real Portugal away from the Algarve resorts.”

Natural environment 

Indeed, while the Algarve is traditionally associated with behemoth resorts and crowded beaches, some 70 per cent of the region benefits from protection for its natural diversity – from rare plant and bird species to a raft of unspoiled beaches away from traffic pollution.

Antonio recognised this as the area’s USP and applied his business experience to create a clear vision for Pedralva.

“I knew from 20 years of working in advertising that we needed a unique proposition. Of the 20m people who come to Algarve each year for tourism, the number looking for a more authentic, close-to-nature trip is growing by 10 per cent,” he says.

“Today, we have the market and the product. But it will take at least ten years to turn a profit. Currently, we are investing profits into developing the product.”

The focus for this year is not on restoring more houses, but developing the activity side of the business with a series of new packages based around nature tourism.

These combine self-catering accommodation with guided hiking, biking, fishing and surfing excursions. Furthermore, Antonio plans to open a Nature Sports Center in the village later this year with on-site activities.

On the cultural side, they are planning to open some old village building to artists and craftspeople to develop a programme of artisans in residence. There are currently four artisans fairs in the village each year.

Pedralva is gearing up to welcome an expected 1,200 visitors in 2011 and is aiming for at least 50 per cent occupancy through the year.

The summer is booked out with Spanish and Portuguese families, but the shoulder seasons attract a more international crowd, including lots of Brits, for guaranteed sunshine and activity-based packages.

Most of all, everyone leaves the village with a rare insight into rural traditions from a grass-roots level.

“This projects is a mix of a business venture and something deeply personal for me,” says Antonio.

“Sometimes I feel like two people. One makes the business deals, but the other is just happy to do something to help.”

This story first appeared in easyJet Traveller in 2011. Liked this? Try Walking in the Alentejo

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MSC TECHNOLOGY AND LEARNING: A few thoughts about e-learning

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Glyndwr University hosted its fourth Technology-Enhanced Learning symposium today.

The event included a keynote address from Mark Stiles, Emeritus Professor of Technology Supported Learning at Staffordshire University, plus a series of shorter, mainly on-topic presentations from both Glyndwr staffers and external speakers.

On a grey Wednesday in Wrexham, it got the grey matter working again – just in time to start delving into the next section of the MSc Learning and Technology.

Stiles, in particular, was scathing about the way universities fail to make innovation work.

“Decision-making processes in universities are almost universally dreadful,” he said.

He also criticised Vice Chancellors who want to have a Massive Open Online Course (MOOC) “just because their neighbour has one” – without understanding it.

Henry Platten of online security firm eTreble9, welcomed the use of picture-sharing media, such as Instagram, to promote the use of infographics in learning, but warned of the nefarious dangers of social media.

“Although you may think you’re not on a given social network, actually you may be,” he said.

So, from social-media learning to the way the biggest barriers to change in universities are the universities themsleves, here are seven things I learnt today:

  • Social media in e-learning is a fast-moving trend [source NMC Horizon Report 2014] but we haven’t got our heads round it yet
  • “Making online learning natural will, frankly, happen” [Prof Stiles]
  • Moodle is often deemed unpopular with students; some HE colleges now use an e-portfolio and Google hangouts
  • Serious games as a sector now makes more money than the film industry
  • “Instant messenger platforms are the next step in social media” [Henry Platten]
  • The university is being unbundled [source IPPR]
  • “Dull stuff [governance] is very important” [Prof Stiles] to make innovation “stick and spread”

Further reading

NMC Horizon Report 2014

An Avalanche is Coming

Mark Stiles on Twitter

Social Media Police blog

 

Story of the week: A cultural new year in Tallinn, Estonia

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* The first post of the new year takes me back to a snowy Tallinn at the start of its year as European City of Culture. Riga takes o the mantle from this weekend. 

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There’s a wind of change blowing in off the Baltic Sea this spring.

For the Estonian capital, Tallinn, which adopted the mantle of European Capital of Culture and the Euro as its official currency in January, it’s a welcome gust.

The city is keen to shake off an image of bawdy stag-night excess in favour of a more highbrow city-break experience.

Tallinn has roughly a thousand years of history as a city, much of it marked by occupation from waves of Danes, Germans, Swedes and Russians respectively.

Estonia finally gained its independent in August 1991 and the indigenous culture has blossomed ever since.

The exhaustive programme of cultural events hopes to finally establish the city as a powerhouse cultural hub to rival St Petersburg or Copenhagen.

Historic streets

Luckily, Tallinn has an ace up its sleeve.

The medieval Old Town, a Unesco World-Heritage site since 1997, abounds with fairytale flourishes: ornate 15th-century doorways, cobbled courtyards with cosy gallery-cafés and a slew of skyline-defining churches rising with dignified calm above the ancient squares.

From my base at the Savoy Boutique Hotel, an intimate property in the heart of the Old Town, we embark on a walking tour that blends history, architecture with a spot of offbeat souvenir hunting.

The Gothic Town Hall, one of the few surviving examples in Europe we learn, dominates the central marketplace and has done since before its first documented mention in 1322.

It’s the satellite backstreets that provide the most compelling nooks and crannies, however.

Town Hall Pharmacy, the oldest in Europe, juxtaposes restored Baroque frescoes with dangling bunches of wild strawberry and mountain clover against a counter of modern-day medicines. Kalev, a historic marzipan shop with adjoining café, has a lost-in-time feel and colourful displays of hand-painted, almond-wafting delicacies.

We then climb snow-frosted sidestreets towards the Upper Town, looking across the spires and weather vanes to the Baltic Sea, for a sense of how Tallinn is changing.

The Estonian Maritime Museum will open in the renovated Seaplane Harbour this autumn. The city’s new Cultural Kilometre, running from the up-and-coming Kalamaja district to the city centre, unveils its first events this spring.

The refurbishment of the Eighties-built TV Tower to showcase Estonian innovation should be complete by the end of the year.

It’s only when we step into the hushed-reverence calm of the Russian Orthodox Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, a symbol of Tsarist power, the connections across the Baltic Sea to Western Europe feel more than a world away.

Given free time to explore alone post tour, I venture down Masters’ Courtyard, where a tiny cafe-cum-chocolate shop catches my eye.

The interior of Cafe Pierre feels like an Estonian grandmother’s front parlour, candle lit and knick-knack adorned.

Over a warming latte and a slice of plaadikook, a cake of cottage cheese and forest berries, I pour over the op-ed story from the latest edition of the English-language Baltic Times, which calls for a reborn Estonia, a nation culturally closer to Sweden than Mother Russia.

But back out on the street, just tucked inside the snow-drifted city ramparts, old Russian women in headscarves still hawk hand-knitted scarves, hats and booties on the street.

The prices are in Euros these days but the negotiation still resolutely in Russian, spliced with nods of harasho and spasiba.

Cold war

The next day we head out east of the Old Town to explore Kadriorg, the genteel, leafy suburb dominated by the summer palace built by the Russian Tsar Peter the Great for his wife Catherine.

The Baroque Palace, dating from 1718, was 40 years in construction and never actually seen complete by its paymaster.

The small but compelling permanent collection of Baroque art tells the tumultuous story of the Russian dynasty and its powerful influence on Tallinn.

Later, I branch out alone to catch a few early events from the cultural programme.

First stop the Hotel Viru & KGB Museum [pictured above], where I join the first ever tour in English to learn more about the hotel’s furtive role in the Soviet era – it housed a KGB surveillance centre on the secret 23rd floor.

The corridor opens into a stark, oblong room with a desk covered in old documents and a hawk-eyed view across the Old Town. The second room is a radio-relay centre, the intelligence link between Helsinki and Moscow.

Sensory overload

But most striking of the new exhibitions is Dark Matters at the Ahhaa Science Centre.

Based on an idea by the German artist Andreas Heinecke, the sensory-depriving installation has blind guides to lead sighted people through a pitch-black maze.

After exploring a mini-me Tallinn park and harbour with just a white cane and my guide’s voice to help me, I end up in a black-hole café, attempting to add milk and sugar to my cup of tea.

While the cacophony of Estonian Europop adds to my confusion, we discuss how to recognise the faces of our respective families without our sight.

As I think about my daughters’ faces, the sense of loss feels more overwhelming at that moment than the eternal blackness that engulfs me.

As I emerge, dazed and blinking into the artificial light of the museum, just as Estonia has emerged through the mists of post-independence reinvention, I feel something tangible has changed.

This story was first published in the Daily Telegraph in January 2011. Liked this? Try also Baltic Culture in Tallinn  

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The rocking horse

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New year makes me nostalgic.

Not for new years gone by – I’ve not had a stand-out new year’s eve for years now.

Indeed, the last couple of years of have done little to inspire new-year cheer. I’m relieved in many ways, frankly, that 2013 has shuffled out the door at last.

But, as I take down the decorations and put out the detritus of the holidays for recycling, a nostalgia for childhood still brings a warm glow.

It’s a yearning, I guess, for a time when life was less complicated and new year was a time of purely innocent expectation.

The horsey in the playground at Rossett (pictured above), North Wales, still brings me that nostalgic glow.

I was back there again over the holidays with Maya and Olivia, working off some toddler energy after lunch in a nearby pub by pin-balling between the slide, the swings and the rocking horse.

I’m pretty sure this is the very same horse I used to clamber upon as a child when we lived nearby and used to visit the village for lunch with my granddad.

It looks, after all heavily weathered and probably hasn’t seen a lick of paint since the mid Seventies.

These days, my horse has become the preferred rocking horse for Maya and Olivia.

On a dark winter’s day, seeking signs of light as I gather my resources to square up to another year, something about passing on the innocent joy of Rossett’s stoic stallion still brings me a sense of comfort.

Times change but the horsey rides on.

How do you feel at the start of a new year? Post below.

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